How to tell a good tee from an expensive one

Price is a poor signal in clothing. A large share of what you pay on a premium tee is brand, distribution and markup, and none of that ends up in the garment. These are the things that do — and all of them can be checked by hand before you buy.

1. Pull the collar

Stretch the neckline gently and let go. It should snap back to its original shape immediately. If it stays wide even slightly, it will be visibly out of shape within a couple of months. A good collar is ribbed and bound in self-fabric; a cheap one is a folded strip of body jersey.

2. Hold it up to the light

Thin patches and uneven density show up immediately backlit. Even, consistent opacity means even yarn and a controlled knit. Cloudy, blotchy areas mean neither.

3. Look at the shoulder seam

It should run along the top of the shoulder in a straight line, not rope or twist. A twisted seam usually means the fabric was cut off-grain, and that shirt will spiral on the body after a few washes. Nothing fixes it.

4. Check the hem and cuffs

Turn them over. Two rows of stitching, evenly spaced, with no skipped stitches and no puckering. Hems take the most stress in normal wear, and a single-stitched hem is the most common place a cheap tee gives up first.

5. Rub the fabric between your fingers

Combed, ring-spun cotton feels smooth and slightly dense. Carded or open-end cotton feels drier and slightly fuzzy, and that fuzz is short fibre ends — the same fibre ends that become pilling around wash six.

6. Ask what it weighs

Any brand that has specified its own fabric knows the number. If nobody can tell you, the fabric was chosen on price rather than on purpose. That is the most useful thing the question reveals, whatever answer you get.

What none of this tells you

How it will look on you, and whether you will actually reach for it. No checklist covers that. But it does separate a garment that was engineered from one that was merely priced, and that is most of the risk.

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